This weekend was full of trial and error and retrial and more
error, set on repeat. There were lots of bugs to iron out with the
darkroom, including but not limited to: faulty emulsion adhesion to the
canvas, inconsistent fogging of the images, weird brown aberrations that
appeared a few hours after fixing the emulsion, and the emulsion
softening and becoming gel-like during the washing phase. Here are a
few images related to the errors:
The image on the left shows the first tests I did on a few different
materials. The one in the middle is the artist's canvas I bought from
Hobby Lobby, and the times of exposure on this strip was 3 seconds, 1.5
seconds, and 0 seconds.. One side is primed with some kind of gesso,
probably acrylic. A major issue we had was that the strips curled
tightly upon developing and fixing. I'm guessing this has to do with
the developer affecting the acrylic primer, softening it and causing the
fabric to distort. The portion in the center that turned a weird
black/brown color was where the emulsion was applied too thickly, and I
believe the fixer was not able to penetrate into this area, causing a
slow reaction hours after I brought it out of the darkroom. One of the
first errors I noticed was that the unexposed portion greyed
significantly, which meant I had a fogging issue with one of the
safelights in the darkroom. To test this I got normal photo paper,
turned off the Patterson Safelight on the desk, and exposed with the
same time. This is the test on the left. With the Patterson Safelight
off, I got no fogging.
Thinking the problem was solved, I
stretched some rough white fabric that I purchased from Walmart (for a
fraction of the price of the canvas from Hobby Lobby!) over a frame and
coated it with the emulsion, and then I did two more strip testsjust to
be safe. The length of expousre was 1 second per region, up to 15
seconds. The long strip on the left had 1 coat of emulsion, and the
strip on the right had 2, just to throw in another variable. The result
had both unexpected and expected results: Neither strip curled during
processing, which was great news. The strip with 2 coats and a deeper
contrast range, which is definitely good to know, however added layer of
emulsion softens immensely while washing the fixer off in water, and
actually came off while I was patting it dry with a paper towel, which
you can see in the middle. One thing I was frustrated to see, is that
the unexposed portion STILL managed to get severely fogged. So I
decided to do another test: First, I put a paper towel over the opening
of the overhead safelight to dilute the light even further. Then, I
coated the same Walmart fabric with 1 coat of the emulsion and developed
it without exposing. The result is the right piece of fabric in the
leftmost image. As you can see, there was a strange inconsistency in
the tone of the image. What I realized, is that before I stopped using
the Patterson safelight, I had been coating strips on the desk near the
light and, thinking myself frugal, was pouring the excess emulsion back
into the bottle, and thereby unknowingly contaminated the whole bottle
with exposed emulsion :( However, now that I solved this, I could
FINALLY move on with creating some art!
The first images I decided to do were basically tests of different
materials: glass and organic plant matter. The glass I printed on
watercolor paper and the grass I printed onto the Walmart fabric. I had
painted the emulsion of the fabric on a piece of cardboard, which gave
me the happy surprise of seeing the corrugated pattern appear in the
image. Painting the emulsion with a brush also gave a nice brush
texture to the image, which is cool. The images on the right were the
positive prints produced by the emulsion, and the images on the left are
the digitally inverted versions of those. I have two plans as to how
to achieve this, which I will test soon. One is a contact print, which
is where I would lay the positive print over an unexposed piece of
fabric and expose that directly to the light, theoretically getting a
negative print of the positive image. The other is using a small print
of the positive image that is inserted into a small projector that I
bought at Michaels which will project a large image of whatever is
placed beneath it onto the wall. Doing this would also, theoretically,
give me the result of an inverted image.
Now came the question of what to do with the canvas I had inadvertently
painted with fogged emulsion. Since I knew I wasn't going to get the
nice bright whites of a pure silhouette, I decided to experiment with
some chemogramming, which is mixing the different processing chemicals
to achieve specific effects. I grabbed a plastic bag and some more
grass and a miniature of a sculpture from a previous project and laid
them onto the canvas, and then loaded a paintbrush with the fixative and
splattered it onto the canvas. After waiting a few minutes, I exposed
the emulsion and developed, and just as I had hoped, the fixative had
prevented to fogged emulsion from developing, and I was able to maintain
some pure whites in the image.
This is the inverted image of a print I produced last week, which I
feel is more effective. Hopefully, using either contact printing or the
projector I will be able to achieve this.